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Application Tips and Hints Below are some pretty useful tips and suggestion that you’ll need to keep in mind when using the Stampcrete product line. You are encouraged to refer back to this section frequently as it will continually expand as new material is added. Overlay Systems | Mat and Skin Use | Patina Stains | Sealers | General Suggestions Overlay SystemsSurface preparation is the key to success when applying one of the overlay systems. This includes thoroughly cleaning the surface with Simple Green, filling any cracks that may be present and applying two coats of overlay primer. The work done up front will ensure that the end product will look great and last for a good, long time. Once the entire surface is swept clean to remove all dirt and loose particles, take care to make sure all cracks are filled in. To best fill in the cracks, chase grind them first to provide ample space for the crack filler epoxy. A two-part, concrete crack repair type epoxy should be used. Once dried, the epoxy will need to be ground flat until it’s flush with the surface. After all cracks have been repaired, remove all loose particles with either a broom or leaf blower. You can now clean the surface with a strong solution of Simple Green and water. After the surface has dried you can apply your first coat of primer. The primer will initially have a milky appearance but will become completely clear once dry. Apply the first coat the night before you do the actual overlay application. Apply a second coat prior to the overlay application and also wait for the second coat to dry clear. You are now ready to apply the overlay. Please refer to the recipe on the overlay material container or the Stampcrete training DVD made available by Westchester County Stampcrete for the proper usage of the overlay systems. Keep in mind that the overlay systems are colorized with liquid colorants which can be mixed together in order to achieve virtually any unique color. On extremely hot days, Stamper’s Friend can be used on the surface of all overlay systems to help retard evaporation times. Also be sure to always pay attention to detail when using the overlay systems. Have your tools readily available so you can move through the process quickly and efficiently. Be sure to bleed all warm water from the hose prior to mixing and try to mix all overlay compounds in the shade when possible. Use a plunge mixer will keep air from entering the mixture. Additionally, a plunge mixer will enable you to get into the corner of the bucket to ensure thorough mixing. Overlays are best applied to surfaces between 55 and 75 degrees. You can determine the temperature by shooting the surface with digital thermometer available at most auto part and hardware stores. Mat and Skin Use When using a mat or skin for the first time, it’s a good idea to cover the working surface with release agent. Do this in addition to casting release across the concrete surface. When you feel the surface is ready for stamping, you can normally just have a member of your work crew walk across the mats or skins to make the impression. On larger surfaces, as you near the end of the stamping process, you may need to have a heavier member of your crew doing the walking or you may even need to use a tamper. Prior to removing your mats or skins from the working surface, it’s a good idea to lift one end to assess the impression that you’ve made. If you judge that the impression is not “deep” enough, lay the lifted end back down and apply more stamping pressure. In the event the impression appears adequate, “taco” the mat or skin (lift both ends off the surface) and lift it straight up. Be careful to never drag the mats or skins across the surface. Patina Stains Patina Stains are a muriatic acid based concrete staining system. These stains need to be handled with extreme care. Once the stain hits the concrete surface there is nothing that can be done to remove it short of using a jackhammer so be very careful of spillage. Patina Stains can be cut with water to achieve variations of intensity. Once applied to the surface the stain will react for up to 4 hours. Beyond 4 hours the stain ceases to have an effect on the concrete surface. If you wish to halt the reaction of the stain prior to the 4 hour threshold it can be neutralized with a solution of baking soda and water. Wet the surface, sprinkle on baking soda and work it in with a brush then rinse clean. Stains can be applied with either a sprayer or brush depending on the look you’re trying to achieve. NOTE: use stains sparingly and cautiously. Remember, you can always add more to achieve deeper colors but you CAN NOT take it away. After staining, clean the surface with a strong solution of Simple Green and water. Sealers Sealers can be used on overlay or stamped surfaces. As a matter of fact, it is highly recommended that finished surfaces are always sealed. Sealer should only be applied when a surface’s temperature is less than 75 degrees. Any hotter and the sealer may bubble or dry to a yellow haze. Be careful not to apply too much sealer or it may turn yellow and crack just as a varnish would. Sealer can be applied with either a 1” – 1.5” nap paint roller or with a high quality sprayer. If using a sprayer it should be thoroughly rinsed with – and all parts cleaned with – Xylene. Applying sealer will really make the surface “pop” and will provide the icing on the cake as it will intensify the surface color. You can get a good idea of what a sealed surface will look like by spraying the surface with water. On high traffic areas such as driveways a top quality epoxy sealer should be used. Finally, sealer should be reapplied every 2 – 3 whether the surface is a driveway, patio, pool deck or whatever. General Suggestions Ideally stamping should be done when concrete is at a 4” – 6” slump. On really hot and sunny days, Stamper’s Friend can be used to retard evaporation and prevent the surface from becoming crusty. Stamper’s Friend can be applied with a sprayer and bull floated into the working surface. Many established decorative concrete installers do not use expansion joints, they simply use saw cuts. What you choose to do depends entirely upon your preferences and what you’re already used to doing. Saw cuts should be located where concrete is most likely to crack. For example, on walkways, it may be at the corner of planter boxes and on pool decks it may be at filter holes and diving board mounting posts. |
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